Its a travellog that i documented on paper while travelling and wrote to the computer when arriving at home, adding some small details. Still most of its parts are original and should be treated as written on the road

Starting from Vienna.
The keys lie on the kitchen table. My hands full with my bike bags.
Backpack – check!
With a bang the door closes and I know, there is no way back anymore.
A warm feeling circles my thoughts. I am not really myself, I can still not grasp that I really did it. That I started this journey.
I leave Vienna singing, cycling on the national road. Full of euphoria. Thats what I am expecting.
First stop: Lisa and Johanes. I get ice, toast and my sister Sonnhild joins me. I see Mimi.
In the evening we drive to Aspang to do some paperworks.


And we continue, next stopp: Our brother Merlin.

Train Station Mürzzuschlag

Beautiful. Via Schlagl we ascend our first steep hill, then decending, not making the next ascend of the Semmering in the heat of the noon easier. Sonnhild needs a pause on our way up to wash her overheated head in cold water. Arriving on the top of Semmering we see a frightening sceenery. Black clouds rush over os in the sky and a storm is blowing into our faces. Whatever. To have to pedal strongly to get down a mountain is a new and interesting experience. Arriving in Mürzzuschlag we meet Andi, at the train station. We excahange a Frisbee, make some funny pictures and continue to Langenwang, running from the rain. We made it.

Train station Mürzzuschlag
Merlin – Hönigsberg
Pause at Merlin’s place

1,5 days later in the morning we continue to another of our brothers, Kai. before that we buy some breakfast. After eating at Kai’s the sky had cleared and it was sunny again. And we continued on the R5, the Mürztalradweg, to Bruck an der Mur where we met Leo, a travel companion that was sleeping on a bank. He already made 188 + 25 kilometers from Salzburg to Bruck. Being only the three of us it was silent and we slowly continued to Graz. Until Leo had a flat tire. So we made a first break, ate relaxed and continued.

Bruck an der Mur
Kai – Krieglach

After repairing the tire we continue but the nice weather was not really stable and around us the first rainy clouds appeared. Still our luck kept us dry and in the sunshine, only in front of us there were some clouds promising us to get wet. Sonnhild leading we followed the traces of the rain, Hias – our final travel companion – waiting for us at Graz. On the wet national road 76 we cycled until Graz main square where we met Hias. South, on the R2 cycling path, mood a little chastened, its getting colder.
After short concluding we decided not to go until Leos home because of the darkness and us being tired already so we searched for a place to sleep. The first place to sleep for the four of us. We found a place, same hidden as wet, swampy. Thus there were a lot of moskitos wich made is pitch the tents pretty fast. I didn’t have a tent with me and tried it the first time to build my improvised tarp out of ropes and a plastic plane. That was fun and with my paper hat in the opening of my sleeping bag to keep the moskitos off my face I woke up happily in the morning accompanied by two snails. And some flies and spiders.

Leos home – Eibiswald

Nightly thunder sounds sponsored by fireworks of a nearby town party had been the only disturbance in the night. After packing everything we rode on, through Wildon and Kaindorf to Gleinstätten and finally to eibiswald. Leos family welcomed us heartwarming and we emptied all of our bags to sort out things we had packed double or thought we wouldn’t need. But… before that we had an enourmous portion of awesome Lasagne with Salad. Applejuice, coffee and cake. Really good food. Real gluttony although reading jacobus before the meal.


We didn’t remove a lot from the bags, at least Sonnhild and I. Hias had packt a lot of things too much. I added 2 liters of water to have a sum of 8.25 liters.
All together very heavy. Same for all of our bags.
Soon after we arrived at the Radlpass, it translates like “pass of bicycles”. But it was like 25% to 30% of steep ascending and everything else than suited for bikes!
After that we had Slovenian old-school streets down to Radii. Gathering down there to continue made it feel the first time like starting into a foreign country, nobody of us knew the path in front of us, nobody of us knew where we will go and what we would become there.
Next stop was Davograd. We were already searching for a place to sleep and found a fitting spot behind a corn field.

Spot: Cornfield
Corn field as protection from curious eyes

This time the camp was set up like following: A plastic plane on the ground, left and right of it each time two bikes and on top of it another plastic plane. It was a superb setup. Leo and I slept like babies but Sonnhild and Hias had set therit tent on a hole in the ground – fail! The night was quiet besides another firework in a nearby town. On the next morning we had tea of stinging nettle and rye bread with Cnabanossi (dry sausage). After that we paced the bikes and cycled on. It took around 77km and a lot of discussion about cycling either on the bike lane or the street (in the end it was mostly on the street) until we turned for a river and found a beautiful place for a rest.

Lunchbreak in Slovenia
Noon is time to rest

We have no Idea who had built that, it were four trees with three benches with cover from sun and rain, a feachvolleyball field and even a slackline. You could access the river ans so we had a bath there and washed some of our uesd clothes, or first washing break. Some of us were swimming while others were slacklinung, relaxing or eating the snacks Leos mum had packed for us or played frisbee. A very calming lunchbreak. We pilosophizeed about the upcoming route and jumped our bikes, all the rest of the day we went downhill. At the next grocery store we stopped, packed our horses with water and food. Each one of us had between nine and eleven liters. Still at the shop we met a – nameless – traveller, also a cyclist, who was on his way to China. He was from Switzerland and rode from school to school and had children paint pictures and handed each hild a picture from somebody from another school. He was on the road for 84 days already already travelling 4600 kilometers, had very good equiptment and huge motivation to go on.

Mogorogologo… or something like that!

After the meeting we continued, alonside of a river, firstly following Leos with to use teh bikelane that showed to be a dead end and after that on the street again. At around 8pm we started to lok for a campsite. Through a valley we went uphil and on a field, hidden from the street we set up the camp. We cooked, Pasta, had a really bad taste.

Eating brings peace

We overslept. We started very late. But we could ride down a Valley. Heading for Novo Mesto. There we raided a grocery store, a fishing shop and a sports shop. As a result only a bad mood between me and Sonnhild but we managed to get around that with eating. After leaving for the border of Croatia rainy clouds appeared. Clouds promising not only being wet but a heavy thunderstorm included. This led to us hiding nearly naked under one of our plastic planes grinning into the faces of the trucks rushing past us. Not really motivated, cooled down and a little exhausted we rode up the next hill. The exercise rewarded with a beautiful view over a vast lowland plain into wich we decended speedily with wet and not really functioning breaks.
We decided to continue until close to the Croatian border and found at the end of the rain a nice spot on a freshly dung field. It was remote and the rain had stopped. A funny construction with the rope and the planes was our sleeping place. We also had some cucumber salad and then we went to bed.
Early morning, before sunrise, we rode on with our wet clothes spread across the ikes to dry to Croatia. Without any disturbance we crossed the border and went up a small mountain. Until Oguil down through a forest and then to the next grocery store. The small amount of Croation money that we had was sufficient for a veggie-rice and some snacks for the evening and after shopping we went out of town, looking for a nice place to sleep.

Laundry line
Language barrier

Soon afterwards we found a nice niche witha table and bench next to the street so we cheekyly sat down, had a break and cooked. A etimated 88 years old lady joined us, maybe owner of the property, and communicated with us with hand and feet and Croatian that we didn’t understand. Pronounciation and pantomime made it a nice talk until the food was ready and we lay down on the sunny meadow with full stomaches.

Remote highlands
Self portrait

the upcoming way is hard to describe in words. Slowly the altitude rises to around 800 meters of height and after that there is about 80 kilometers of highland, hilly with valleys and a lot of very rural villages. In the beginning you can still see some people but later and slowly changing the area seems deserted. Houses are damaged and where we have lakes on the map there are only dry or grassy basins. After that we arrive at the UNESCO protected site, the Plitvice Lakes where we have a nice ride down again. And again up and in total exhaustion we drive somewhere into the wood to find a place to stay. It was an interesting mood there, big yellyw glowing insects, rustling in the background, things falling from trees and deadly moskitos in the early morning. On the next day we continue again to 800 meters altitude and down again into a long streched valley. It was inbearably hot and we were lucky to have so much water with us.
That day we met a road block. Its said that rhe road is blocked somewhere in 40 kilometers. Because of construction. Alternatively there is a detour of 60km. But we don’t care about alternatives. And that is good.
But firstly the stup in Ubdina.

Devilish dog
Central Park – Ubdina
Beer on the monestary hill

After a very enjoyable Ice on a very high hill within very large high plains topped with a very strange monastery we sit in the central park of 100 inhabitants Ubdina and cook pasta. But we are scared away by a 700 years old lady, completely in black dress, hollbleing towards us mumbleing and lamenting some unitelligible phrases. As if she was calling the devil upon us. Also we were scared by the small but overproportional fat dog that was moving with about 0.005km/h into our direction, sweating, grining and panting.

High plains are closed due to former war
Awesome landscape
Sheeps, SHEEPS! Everywhere!

So we continue through the hotness. On our way we meet 3 Hungarians who go ļike “we do it every year” to make holiday in Bosnia. They also choose teh closed road. On that road we continue pretty long uphill and always following the borderline to Bosnia. You can see remnants of the Jugoslavian war. Concrete and steel walls and definitely a lot of mines next to the street so we try not to get off it. At a complete out of place pond in the middle of the hot and dry plains we meet a sheep herd with its shepard.

And down again

Close to Otac the road goes down the mountain. Shortly after or in … hmm… can’t read the village name … there was the reason for the road block. But, as we expected and why we took that road, there was also a redirecting route. But it looks like they didn’t want to have the tourists go cross-country.

Professional hideout

Here we followed an old ruad into the bushlands where we set up a camp on an old field path. On the next day – after the already common banana-water-muesli – we continued towards Split.

Camp in Croatia

And finally away from the high plains into the open flatland. Its getting greener around us. Real grass. Real trees. People have gardens next to their houses – and especially, there are people. Really nice. Until around 9 am. afterwards it is around 30 degree Celsius, in the shadow. And we are on a fully sunexposed asphalt road. AAAHHH!!! Sweating we fight our way through the country.

Perucko Jezero
Waterlevel: NOT MUCH

But then we arrive at a lake. Out mood is pushed by that but we are really done for from the heat and nobody is able to catch a clear thought. Although the conditions are bad we manage to cook a marvellous rice with fresh tomatoes and peppers and fried zucchini. Then I fall asleep.

Washing clothes
Soaping clothes

I wake up with the helpless try to free myself from under Sonnhilds bike that has been blown away by the wind which had lifetd the plastic plane that we had spanned as a sun shield. So now that the camp was destroyed we packed everything and went further south.

Southern Garden
Evening mood

We decide to not go to Split and instead of that not go to the coast for now. As we left the lake the temperatures were a little more enjoyable and so we made some kilometers through motivation descending areas, bought a lot of fruits and found a beautiful place to sleep within one of those stone-fenced old and decayed gardens. A short meal and a little talking and we went to bed, not even the two cars that came at night and nearly found our hideout as they parked 2 meters next to us could wake me up.

Up and down

Breakfast as always, Muesli, pooping and packing. Today we will see the sea! Always through mediterrainian areas, small villages and alongside a river that was eating itself through the surface of mother earth. The canyon that the river had created with the vegetation that surrounded it and the mountains in the background with the stuffy haze of the prenoon sun made it feel like being in south amerika on a tour through the jungle. Not like in Croatia.

We did it!

For those who don’t know that: the coast of Croatia is seamed with rocky faces and since we came through the land we had a tremendous view from 400 meters above the sea over the adriatic islands. Cheering we decended through the first hairping bends. On a parking we shot some pictures and then we went further down, always in the direction of the sea.

Coastal road

Despite all the cheering we somehow just didn’t manage to get to the sea directly since we were not able to decide or unite for one path – heat had its part in that – and for how to sleep. Booking a hostel? A private appartment? Resting for a day? Stay at the sea or go back into the countryside running from the tourism that is slaying al kind of idyllic sceenery to find a place under the 5 million star hostel in the arms of mother nature? We managet to get ofer fighting with each other through suppessing the chances of that by shopping and a beer. We went for a park and cooked. Directly on the coast, that was good for us all.

Coastal kitchen
Camping ground in Croatia

After some back and forth we put us and our bikes to the next camping ground and decided to spend a night and beginning of the next day there to satisfy all of our needs.
Zaostrog. That was the name of the village. The camping ground was as pleasant as the temperatures. During day you could puke but in the night until 9am really nice and quiet. Here the idea of tattooing handlebars just above the ass as a representation of the famous “Arschgeweih”-Tattoo idea was born. After several showers we payed 220 Kuna and drove with good conciousnes alongside the coast back to the countryside.

Neretva – Delta
Healthy food

Heat. Sweat. A bath in the sea would be exactly the right thing, despite the salt. On the coast we fought our way up and down until we reached the Baccina Lakes and with them the Nerevta Delta with reedy plains, wanton vegetation and diverse animalic populations.
Along the river until we found a shop where we gave the completely overwhelmed cashier our last 20 Kuna as tip and fled Croatia by crossing the border to Bosnia. Away from the tourism. Back into souvereignity and freedom. Leos Achilles tendon was not very happy though. A little sore. But we had the way to the pharmacy already planned and were confident. Then we crossed the border to Bosnia.

Dinner in Bosnia.

Very soon you see, that the garbage policy in Bosnia is not very tight. Where you throw your things there they stay… until the end of all days. But the landscape is nice and if there is water than nature is very rich. Some gunshot wounds on the buildings remind you of the war. When searching for a campsite we realize, that with the rising temperature and decreasing distance to the equator the plants become more spiky and the insects get bigger and more. Next to a perfectly hitten mantis Leo woke me up after a several centimiter sized spider had passed my head.

Broiling heat in the canyon
We are up the hill
Break from the heat?

It had become a very hot day and after some shopping we found ourselfs facing a several kilometers long rise of 10% that gave us the feeling of being in hell itself. After passing it we tried to make a break but after 11am the temperatures were so high that riding the bike is actually cooler since you have the wind. But we were so done that not even that was possible. After the break we continued to Bileca, shopping, and then to the lake looking for freedom… ah sleep.

Impressive Lake
The ruin – our campsite.

The lake was lovely and after washing and eating we went to the top of the hill that was on a peninsula in the lake to sleep there near the ruins of an old castle. A georgeous atmosphere with a view over all the valley and the lake. On the highest point of the ruins I had the dump of my life. Around 100 meters above the lake, clear sky with thousand stars, mild midsummerevening breeze and a moon that reflected in the lake. Wonderful!

High over the lake
View in the morning
Big insects!

Since my sleeping position was a lot better than Leos I woke up early and refreshed. After getting up we had muesli and fresh mint tea. After that we explored the ruin but we didn’t find anything of real interest.

Bosnias hilly landscape
Free cows!

Helping this buddy to cross the road
The day was getting very warm… aaahhh.. HOOTT!!!! After the first thirty minutes we crossed sweatting to the bones but without any problems the border to Montenegro. In our lunchbreak we realized that we were in deep shit. Leos backwheel as broken. Not only flat, but like several spokes were breaking out of the rim. And the wheel was strongly bent. The mood was further down than the Mariana Trench and Leos motivation for the tour was fading fast. But well, since we are no magicans we slowly continued to Niksic which was not far away. It was a good chance to keep an eye on our surroundings.

Montenegrian Highlands

Montenegrian Highlands
Cruising man!

Bring it on – down we go

One of the many strange monuments

Montenegro is just awesome. The land of my childhood dreams, you ride along on 900 to 1100 meters altitude, blooming vegetation, temperatures like on the Croatian coast and there is a good mood spreading from everywhere. Whereever you look, everything looks mystical, as if you were in the jungle in south america in the time of the Aztecs. Everything is made from stone and every house has a small garden, just big enough to feed a cow or a goat. And everything is arranged in depression sin the landscape.

Autark settelment

Niksic from above

In every depression in the landscape you see a small field and next to it a small hut. Completely comfy, cozy and beautiful. Around you mountains try to beat each other in height and standing on top of the hills over Niksic I get a very good feeling from the lakes that are arranged next to the city. We descend some several hundred meters in height, buy some food for the evening and look for a place to sleep.

Field of Lavender – smelly!

Our sleeping place was as original and strange as all the others we had so far. A dumpsite where we settled on already rotten garbage in the middle of a field of Lavender. The smell of our food was superb. Good morning without sorrows – don’t believe it! After riding helpless through the center of Niksic looking for an english speaking person that knows a bike shop it took about an hour of asking and half an hour of discussion on a flea market to find out that its holiday that day and the day after. National holiday.

probably one of my best iced coffes

Lost mountain street

Montenegrians were celebrating their freedon from Nazi-Germany (thus seemed the mood of the people to us) and on top of that we were advised to look for a specialist in the roughly 70km distant capital Podgorica to solve the rim problem. Well, there we go.

A dumpsite next to the street

In front of us is the sea. Somewhere.

The ride to Podgorica payed off. We had a great view from the first pass we ascended. About 40 km of decending road with a lot of 2000+ meters high mountains left and right. But unfortunately, slowed by Leos wheel, we could only go a maximum of 25 km/h. On our way we found a dripstone cave – just next to the street. Right after that we decidet to have a really big tomato – sheep cheese – olive – corn – salad.

Another monument

Sonnhild drinks beer while riding

On the river where we decided to eat we found half of the surrounding village. They just randomly sat around there, playing card games and swimming, all in front of them a fat guy that lives since 30 years in germany and claims himself to me a „Enterpreteneur” and comes there to Fruktar every half a year with his kids. He gave us valuable information regarding the repair of Leos bike. Besides he had sponsored the concrete surroundings near the river and showed us a spring had ice-cold water and tasted better than any water I had ever before. Maybe it tasted that good because I had not had fresh water for a really long time but had bought all our water always in shops in plastic bottles. Ālso the River was amazing and so we swam.

A womans statue

Sleeping place

Afterwards we continued with a drowning motivation to Podgorica where we rested for the night.
Here I noted into my booklet: Creating a bike frame by myself will be hard. I thought about a concept for myself but threw everything because it was so complicated.

Close to Podgorica

Leo chillin’

We met some fisherman that Montenegro, or Crna Gora as it is called there, has the meaning „Black Wood”. The next day to podgorica, to the big shop but we were pretty disappointed that they did not have rims at all.
But we had coffee and the waiter told us about a canyon in the north of the country where we should go rafting. The bike specialist we were told about – sorry, holiday – was closed.

Where is LUNCH????

Maximum hear – desert style

So we tried to reach the huge lake south of the capital but after 40 minutes through hell – my thermometer showed 45,8°C in the shadow, cant be true bit it was definitely HOT – or world had collapsed and a fight was brewing between me and Sonnhild. But after some discussion we sorted everything out and went through all the city to the north to find a nice place at the river. In our bag a 6kg melon for just 49 Cents.

Shadow – break – restless

Evening at the river

The fisherman at the river explained that the people in Montenegro fish illegally with dynamite and electronic current. Our nightly companions were 2 stray dog babies that tried to eat Leo alive in the night. In the morning after the breakfast we washed our clothes and shaved in the river followed by a bath in natures whirlpools with a non-alcoholic beer in our hands. It was marvellous at 9am in the morning and already warm.

Bike shop


After that we went to the so called speciallist. He sold us a fitting rim. Without spokes. After that we rode a little skeptical behind a silvern Passat with a somewhat mafiosi driver that as supposed to bring us to the „workshop”. There we met Raki the spirit, Haska the dog and the owner of the 1 squaremeter workshop Miso who repaired the rim with detail and skill and claimed to have been a parachute jumper and skiing instructor. Very earthy and super guy. We also got the invitation to come to Bulgaria where he will have us on a roundcourse with a plane and a parachute jump but some temporal differences made it impossible for us to accept.

Miso @ work

hanging in the park

In the heat of the afternoon we continued after shopping north east, away from the city towards Kosovo and Albania. The first twelve kilometers ir scended steeply and we made another 650 meters of height before we were looking over the valley, watching the distant mountains in the sunset and waiting for the full moon. That one led us into the night where we all rested under the clear sky, it was very comfortable.


Good Morning

Hills over Podgorica

The morning sund and a fresh mint tea promised a beautiful day but It was even better. About 25 kilometers the asphalted road winded itself up to 1500 meters of altitude to present us an astonishing view to the mountains around us.

We come from there

This belongs to me

Mountain road

Fields in the mountains

Mountain people with an instrument

This idyllic ride through fields of wild strawberries and skeletonlike trees was only blurred by Hias’ pushing. He had to fight for us with the wild strawberries which tried to keep Sonnhild and me there forever. Mhhhh… wild strawberries. All full of them. For several kilometers alongside the road they grew in fields and with enourmous size, maybe they spread over all the mountain? Big, sweet, wild strawberries!

1500m alt.



Berg Heil

Sonnhild is repairing a flat tire

Banana energy

Buzomirsko Jezero

Last ascend

Over the top

Then we continued to Bukomirsko Jezero, a lake at about 1445 altitude surrounded by massive rock faces, wild horses and cows. And 6 cars full of city-people, jung and old, that killed the atmosphere screeming all the time. Mixed with gunshots that toned from the mountains, hopefullyonly a hunter that shoots his prey.
Lonely settlement of cabins

Buzomirsko Jezero

Road safety?

After departure towards rock and steep we find ourselfs at the portal of a valley. The road on our map has the value of a bad painting here because if anything then its a mountainbike downhill route. Water is empty to one third, we are hungry and we don’t have a lot of food left. Changing plans. It would have onle been 15 kilometers to Albania and another 15 kilometers through Albania but concerned about our safety we decided 3 against one for another path. Our hunger led us to a shop but it took is 3 villages to find one. In Kolashin, a strange ski resort full of tourists.

Resting at the river

There we stocked our reserves and went to have lunch along the river. We found an old fire place there that we got started again and afterwards we tried – with a highly improvized rod, a wooden stick with rope and hook – to fish some fresh fish, no luck. but we were able to wash ourselves and sit on a campfire in the night. And we froze after the fire went out since it cooled down to 12-12 degrees of celsius and everything, including our sleeping bags where wet from morning dew.
After we decided not to go through albania we went back a little and to Andrijevica crossing another mountain. We had an awesome ride down, with all the bags and weight on the bike it felt a little like snowboarding, dropping into the left and right steep turns. Down there we waited for Leo who was trying not to give his new rem everything he got and had some strawberries until someone called from a house next to us and asked where we were from. After short talking we were invited to coffee and beer and sat relaxed – somewhat ruining the birthday of one son – with a danish family and their local grewn parents at the table and talked with them about our already done path and our upcoming route. We got the valuable information that aur desired path was a rocky road over a 1900 meters pass that is not recommended for bikes. Also we got an adress to send a postcard. After that we went to the shop to buy some food. Leo had already decided that he wanted to drive home to Austria on the following day so we were planing his route whil Hias was cooking. Screams of 11-12 year olds made us leave and so we continued to Berane. Leo had decided to leave via Sarajevo and Budapest. It was his bike that he was not sure about anymore and that made him loose all fun that he had riding with us. Also he feared he might not be able to repair his bike inside of Kosovo and Bulgaria if there would be another failure of material.

Morning beard

Prepare for the Tunnel

After a camp at the river with a continous failing fishing we continued as only three towards Rozaje and Serbia/Kosovo. First uphill, another 1400 meters and then down through a tunnel. Rozaje is a real touristic place. On the road already we saw a lot of German, Swedish, Luxemburgian, Finnish, Norwegian, British and Frensh license plates. Although it usually is a place for skiing also in the summer there was a lot of action.


No Mans Land

After a cappucino with ice inside we continued towards the Serbian border through a very nice gorge to a small lake. „Small” on our map. Still through the Montenegrian and Serbian border through burning piles of garbage and dark, dark tunnels passing closed bridges and huge rocks lying on the street. We had lunch at the lake that seemed run dry. Not a lot of water and that one warm and dirty. The daily quarreling in the lunchbreak made us saddle our horses and continue, hoping for a nice place to sleep.

Lunchbreak at the lake

Free turtle

And we found one. After going through the Kosovo checkpoint where we got our own transit visa. The „small” lake on the map became a 20 kilometer long lake on whichs banks we – after bathing naked – sat to a campfire to eat and set up a camp. Before going to sleep a full moon arose that reflected very beautiful in the lake. Blurred was the night only by a stray dog that made the whole night that I spent as always under the clear sky to a nervous listening and dreamless sleep. Only in the morning I was able to get some rest, only until I was woken up by Sonnhild and Hias. Breakfast, shittung and bathing in the morning, that is all I need!

Best place in all Kosovo


Alongside the sea that became a river soon we went further down, up tp 60 kilometers an hour until Kosovska Mitrivica. Next to the street you could see partly finished and partly unfinished luxurious villas mixed with some gas stations, some companies for building materials and some repair workshops. Entering the city that impression became even stronger. It seemed as if the whole city was a building site, starting from the street to the cars, the taxis and the shops.

Hoiday on Kosovarian Lake

Offroad extreme

Kosovo – done!

Time to move

Great sign

After sending some postcards we went for a coffee of course. Chans let us run into a local that spoke english and brought us after some talking to a fishers shop where we bought two fishing rods for 10 Euros each. After that he jumped into his bus and drove away. HE was a bus driver.




Somehow my memories are fading. I have a sore eye and everything is hard since the pain is taking about 30% of my concentration and the pen – just bought – already fails.

Construction – everywhere

Bustaxi – jump in and out as you want

From Mitrovice we continued towards Prishtina, on the road that is connecting the two biggest cities of the Kosovo with each other on wich there are neither any rules nor safe cars nor catalyzer but Burning piles of garbage and a coal fired power plant. All in all nothing that made breathing any mor interesting that for the need to survive.

Highway WTF?

Prishtina underground

This cuts – especially Sonnhilds – mood. As we were somehow on a highway with uncountable and undefined amounts of car lanes close to Prishtina it was enough. Also the try to fix her broken brake that was not working since some time and braked while driving all the time was not making her mood rise. So we continued in the dark of the upcoming night to a lake about 10km far away where we camped and went to bed finally. The next morning we spent resting and fishing with the same result as always before. No fish!

Fishing Mitrovica

Fishing Prishtina

Stray dog – never forget!

Chilling at the lake
Room for a night?

Things packed and continue. In the afternoon we were looking for protection from storm and rain in a bar at a shopping mall where we ate Kebab for 2 Euro each, fried lamb, funny sauce, Salad with sheep cheese and tomatoes with cheese topping, really good. Looking for a place to sleep – not as easy as planned – and so we figured out after discussing the bad mood that Sonnhild had set ehr mind to travelling alone but in real is travelling with companions. Good to know, good food good mood.

We continue.

After the rain


About 8km after starting we realize that we are not on our planned route. But are goin gin the opposite direction. But hey… gonna be fun right, so we continue. It led to us being invited by a local to coffee and a nice talk.

Friends of the USA

Writing right now I inspect whats going on aroudn me and see a pack of local kids swimming and diving for fish in the river where we have our break at the border of Macedonia. They catch fish, every minute. I only manage to catch a very small one with my rog and throw it back in.

We continue on a road that shows us several signs of „no cycling” but we didn’t care and so we arrived in Skopje rather fast. A nice city, flooded with people. Many things are under construction there.
It’s all ’bout ridin’


We organized a detailed map of Macedonia and Bulgaria and sent some postcards zipping an iced coffee. The waiter told us that there are a loooot of bad people and bad policemen in macedonia but ensured us that it is ok to ride the bike on the freeway. Done as said we were on a highway again, with the bike. Sonnhild though didn’t like it very much so we continued after 10 kilometers on the national road.

Freeway hurray

That road was really fucked up, same as our mood, but we found a nice place through riding through a field next to the highway near a nice looking spot alongside the river. Flooded with hell of a lot of moskitos. So many that i was afraid of breathing and that they might fly all into my eyes. Is was like wery much snow falling. Well packed and protected from the moskitos we went to bed after some tuna. On the next day we went on the Freeway to Veles where we continued on the old national road. Here we had the southernmost point of our journey.

macedonia cyclingGolden Land